SCABAL Special Editions
Every season again, cloth manufacturer Scabal proves why it has earned its reputation of trendsetter in the luxury cloth segment. This summer, the manufacturer has once again pushed back the boundaries with the “Worsted Vicuña for Suitings” collection, a line of vicuña suit cloth. In so doing, Scabal raises the technical bar again as it is the first cloth manufacturer to succeed in weaving qualitative cloth using extremely delicate vicuña. The weaving process took several years to perfect.
Vicuña is one of the softest and finest types of wool worldwide. The wool is produced by the vicuña, a small camelid, which lives in the Andes. Vicuñas are related to the lama and the alpaca. This slender animal only produces a small quantity of wool, approx. 500 grams a year, thus contributing to its rare and precious nature. Vicuña wool has been in considerable demand since the Inca era. The Incas held the animal in high esteem. According to them, the vicuña was a reincarnation of a pretty young virgin, who was offered a golden cloak in exchange for her hand in marriage to an ugly old king. That is why the Incas never killed vicuñas, unless at the king’s specific request. The Spanish conquistadores immediately expressed great interest in this most precious wool and started hunting the vicuña. As a result, the animal was almost extinct by 1825. Since then, it has been protected by law. Vicuña fibre is hollow within, which explains its high insulating capacity. It is the finest wool fibre worldwide. The wool is left in its natural colour, as it is highly sensitive to chemical treatments. Due to the fine nature of the wool, it was technically quasi impossible to incorporate it into a suit cloth. Scabal has managed to bring this challenge to a successful end. The combed vicuña wool fibres are sorted lengthwise before they can be spun. The longer the fibres, the more interesting they are for the weaving process. Long-fibred vicuña wool is found in Peru and is quite rare. It is this wool, which is used to spin the Worsted Vicuña for Suitings.
The new collection comes in a series of classic motifs, which contribute to making the exceptional luxury of this fabric even more discrete. You will only experience its true luxury, when you put on a Vicuña suit. Its lightness and softness are unparalleled.
Scabal introduced the world’s first ever 100 per cent worsted spun vicuna suiting cloth in the winter of 2008. Now it has continued the innovation and produced a vicuna jacketing line, a 97 per cent worsted vicuna and 3 per cent silk blend.
“We blended Vicuna with silk to give the yarn more stability and strength in the spinning process” says Nora Kraemer of Scabal’s Fabric Design Department.
Sorted by hand
“It is difficult to spin worsted vicuna because the tightly-twisted fibres in the yarn have to be long – and vicuna hair is mostly very short. So the fleecy hair is sorted by hand, selecting only the longest fibres for the hi-tech worsted spinning process.”
Previously, the 100 per cent vicuna jacketing fabric was only available in three colours – natural, black and blue. Now, for the first time ever, Scabal has introduced different colours and designs.
“Vicuna jacketing” is available from October 2010 and includes 10 designs, five herringbones and five windowpane check designs on a herringbone ground weave. All are in classical, timeless shades
of brown, dark grey, green-grey, navy blue and black.